The Landscape, History and
Birdlife of the Salthouse Marshes by Steve Harris |
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Salthouse’s defining landscape-features, the marshes and the shingle
bank, have for thousands of years been shaped by entirely natural processes.
The shingle, now thought to be largely glacial in origin has, in fits
and starts and averaging about 0.75 metres a year, rolled in towards
the rising land. At the same time Blakeney Point has extended, as sand
from the west has built up at its tip. At the start of the 1500s the
view from the village green would have appeared little changed from
that when the settlement was first established, and reminiscent of the
scene from Blakeney Quay now. The shingle ridge would have been nearly
a quarter of a mile further away and the intervening land, where cattle
now graze on grass pastures, would have been dissected by creeks and
channels and covered by saltmarsh plants. At least three more ‘eyes’ would
have been visible: Great Eye, with Flat Eye beyond, and Rough Brough
Hill (Ruburgh Hill) more or less opposite Walsey Hill. On spring tides,
Gramborough Hill would have been an island, as all the marshes would
have been flooded. Towards the landward edge
of the saltmarsh, vigorous spring activity would probably have added
sufficient fresh water to the estuary for there to have been a reed
fringe to the rising land, extending for a distance out onto the marsh. And so it would be today, if Dutch embankers had not set about claiming land from the estuary. |
The earlier clay
bank with most significance to Salthouse was the bank built
in about 1650 which encloses the Cley Marshes, the area that
is now the Norfolk Wildlife Trust’s
reserve. Through the first half of the nineteenth century, a major
channel around the north side of the Cley enclosure connected
Salthouse to Blakeney harbour and beyond. Salthouse people
still had access to the sea, and the sea continued to have
tidal access to the marshes. All this changed dramatically
on a stormy night in 1845. That night, crashing waves spread
the shingle southward and filled in the channel, cutting off
the village’s access to the sea. With any argument
about whether or not to enclose the marshes effectively redundant,
it is easy to see that the reclaimers saw the chance to take the
marshes from the sea once and for all. To prevent saltwater, that
could come through and over the
shingle, from spoiling the intended grazing, a clay bank was proposed
running the length of the marshes just inland of the shingle. This
bank was built between 1851 and 1855, and the reclamation it permitted
was formalised by the Inclosure Award of 1853. The map of the Award
(above) is curiously silent about the nature of the ground being
enclosed. It divides the marsh into neat rectangular blocks without
reference to the creeks, sand flats and pools which persist even
today. At that time water on the marshes had no easy means of escape,
and the area must have been, for most part, a large brackish lagoon.
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